26 Things to Do in Łódź -

It was only after I booked my weekend in Łódź that I realized what a raging debate surrounds this Polish city. While some have hailed it as a success story, a failing industrial town revitalized into a hipster hotspot, others have poked at this idea as a hype bubble. But by the time I learned that all I might find only stag parties, it was a bit too late. So I decided to make it a fact finding mission – what was the scene really like? I made it a mission to check off all the things to do in Łódź – well, that I physically could, having just gotten off the Trans Siberian and ‘dashing’ from Vladivostok to Warsaw by taking four flights in three days.

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This is some people think of Lodz -- an abandoned, decaying brick building with a bit of street art. — Would it all look like this? Depressing, busted out industrial space?

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Why Visit Łódź?

While you might not be able to pronounce it (try woodge), Łódź is the third largest city in Poland. The city was first settled sometime in the 14th century, though it wasn’t until the early 1900s that it really became a booming city. Following WWI, it became an important industrial hub, drawing a multicultural crowd of workers and propelling its manufacturing barons to the level of kings. (It was once even called the ‘lingerie capital of Poland’ for its mass production!)

In 1939 Łódź was invaded by the Nazis, and the Jewish population was destroyed. Following end the of WWII and the establishment of the Polish People’s Republic, industry had a brief resurgence before faltering again. Things looked pretty grim for the decaying manufacturing city until the early 2000s, when a major revitalization project was launched. It doesn’t hurt that Łódź is a major university town, and the energy that students bring helps propel it forward.

Colorful umbrellas hung over an alley in Lodz. — Lodz is not a grey city at all!

Following these developments, numerous media outlets began touting it was Poland’s next great city break destination. Others have argued that this is just a flashy marketing campaign, the Łódź is still as gray and depressing as it was in the 80s and 90s. But the Łódź I found was decidedly not gray or depressing! I found it intriguing, bustling, and – maybe most importantly – delicious. There are numerous things to do Łódź , so many that I couldn’t get to all of them in a weekend. I would even say it’s worth more than a day trip, if possible. Like I said — half of the fun is the eating and drinking, and there’s only ‘so much’ you can do of that in one day (supposedly).

An old brick manufacturing building now houses Wina i Chleba, a hip restaurant. — Old manufacturing buildings have been repurposed into restaurants and businesses.

What Makes it Special?

Besides its interesting history, Łódź has some distinct characteristics that make it worth visiting, even if you’ve visited every other adorable Polish city. First, instead of a main square, Łódź has a long avenue as its ‘city center.’ Next, the renovated industrial buildings and warehouses do make for a vibrant contrast against the charming Polish architecture. Lastly, it really does feel like there’s forward-moving energy here. When I was there I heard a saying that went something like, “If you want to see Poland’s past, go to Krakow. If you want to see Poland’s present, go to Warsaw. If you want to see Poland’s future, go to Łódź.” It’s hard to resist that kind of optimism!

Lodz's tram station with its colorful geometric roof. They call it the unicorn station, but it reminds me of butterfly wings. — More color – the new tram station.

Things to Do in Łódź, Poland

1. Visit the City of Łódź Museum to see how the industrial barons lived.

With the manufacturing boom in Łódź, the incredibly wealthy industrial barons needed an outlet for their new fortune. They built stunning houses in the late 19th and early 20th century, many of which have been converted into museums or educational institutions. You can visit the home built by Izrael Poznanski, one of the most powerful of the barons, which is now the City of Łódź Museum. Besides getting to wandering around its rich interiors, you get to learn more about the citizens of Łódź at the turn of the century — both the upper and working class.

The outside of the Izrael Poznanski palace, which now houses the City of Lodz Museum — Some renovation work outside of the old Poznanski palace, which now houses the City of Lodz Museum.

The wood paneled ballroom in the Poznanski palace. Going to the museum here is one of the best things to do in Lodz! — Heeeeeeello, Polish Downton Abbey!

This is one of my top suggestions for things to do in Łódź. Between the lux interiors upstairs and the basement exhibit on the more average life in Lodz, I felt like it provided a solid impression of the city’s history. If you can’t get enough of the lavish life of the industrial barons, also check out the Herbst Palace Museum.

2. Sample some innovative craft beer.

My other top suggestion of what to do in Łódź! As much as I stan Ukrainian craft beer, the Polish craft beer scene is really one of the most interesting in Europe. With stellar bars like PiwPaw and Piwoteka Narodowa, Łódź is a great place to do some sampling. I tried a pine gose beer and heard rumors of a Thai sour that I unfortunately failed to find and still dream about.

A pine beer al fresco, with a street mural in the background. — Pine beer! The Polish craft beer scene really pushes the flavour envelope.

3. Go street art hunting.

Since the Urban Forms Foundation launched its revitalization initiative in 2009, Łódź has become a super place for street art in Poland. Polish and international artists have brightened up the streets by reimagining the city as a canvas. I was surprised and slightly moved to see a painting by Eduardo Kobra almost right after I got off the bus – his painting in New York City near the High Line was one of my favorite growing up. There are around 40 murals all over the city, so you have plenty to go hunting for!

The Kobra mural in Lodz is a tribute to Arthur Rubinstein, the master pianist. — Kobra’s tribute to Arthur Rubinstein.

4. Get starry-eyed at Rosa’s Passage.

Rosa’s Passage (also called the Rose Passage) is an art installation by Joanna Rajkowska, who spent two years transforming a brown, drab alley into one of the most fascinating streets in the city. The installation also mirrors the difficulties Rajkowska’s daughter had with her sight after chemotherapy. I won’t give away too much of the idea here, but I will say it’s best to visit at a particularly sunny time.

In the Rose Passage, one of the best things to do in Lodz, the walls are covered with shards of mirror in swirling 'eye' or 'rose' designs. — I got great mirror selfie game.

5. Check out some master artists.

The Museum of Art has one of the most vibrant collections in all of Poland. Incorporating works from the 20th and 21st century, it showcases the best in modern and avant garde art from Polish and international artists. To get a small sample of these geniuses, you can visit the convenient ms² location in Manufaktura.

6. See Łódź reinvented at Manufaktura.

The factory buildings from manufacturing mogul Izrael Poznanski fell into disrepair at the end of the 20th century. However, after significant renovations, the imposing red brick complex re-opened in 2006 as Manufaktura, a massive entertainment-shopping-cultural center. With bars, restaurants, museums, stores, rock climbing, a bowling alley, and even a zip line, Manufaktura draws tourists and locals alike — not the least because of its vibrant repurposed infrastructure.

Manufaktura is touted as one of the top things to do in Lodz, and it really has *a lot* of things to do. Here you can see shops and trampolines, but there are also restaurants and museums, bars and an entire mall.

7. Watch some beach rugby.

If you visit Manufaktura during the summer, you can enjoy the ‘beach bar’ in the Market part of the complex. Kick off your shoes, grab a cocktail, and do your best to figure what the heck is going on (there’s also volleyball tournaments — much easier for this American to follow). In the winter there are Christmas decorations, an ice skating rink, and some market shops.

Club beach rugby in the middle of Manufaktura in Lodz. — I just clapped when everyone else clapped.

8. Stuff yourself at OFF.

OFF is a collection of shops and restaurants located just… off Piotrkowska Street. I ate there twice in one weekend, once at the transportative Ato Ramen (recommended to me as the best ramen in the city by a local) and once for brunch at the popular Drukarnia Sklad Wina i Chleba. They also sometimes have small local markets near the Piotrkowska Street entrance.

The interior of Wina i Chleba in Lodz, with big windows and rustic furniture.

9. Get in the inside story with a free walking tour.

Throughout the summer you can join a free walking tour of Łódź. There are two different options, running on different days and meeting at different starting points. (Do make sure you tip your guides — some tour companies require the guides to pay them for each person who comes on the tour.)

10. Sneak some butterfly kisses at the Palmiarnia.

The Palmiarnia in Łódź houses a collection of exotic (and normal) plants from around the world, but perhaps even more exciting are the residents of the Palmiarnia. Giant koi, a dozen (or more) turtles, and a butterfly room. The butterfly room is small, but I’ve never had a chance to be so up close and personal with them before, so I found it delightful (especially when one landed on my toe). There’s also a tank showing caterpillars/butterflies in various stages of metamorphosis, which is pretty neat.

The Palmiarnia in Lodz has a butterfly room. Here, an orange and black butterfly rests on the leaf of a plant.

11. Understand history in the Jewish Quarter.

In part due to its manufacturing industry, Łódź had one of the largest Jewish populations in Poland. Nearly a third of the city’s inhabitants were Jewish, a number growing above 230,000 people. After the Nazis invaded, the Jewish quarter was transformed into a ghetto. While much of the Jewish quarter was destroyed and little of the Jewish population remains, the city has invested in revitalizing the neighborhood and establishing memorials to its annihilated citizens. Now, many plaques mark where significant events happen, and the Survivors’ Park stands as a place of reflection and remembrance. If you would like to know more about the history here, you can arrange a guide.

12. Pay tribute at the Radegast Train Station.

During World War II, the Radegast Train Station was heavily used as the Nazis moved Jewish people and other prisoners to concentration. Now, a memorial stands to mourn the 145,000 people who passed through Radegast, most going to their death.

13. Take a breather in nature.

Łódź has numerous green spaces where you can go to relax. You can explore or cycle around one of Europe’s largest urban forests, Łagiewnicki Forest. Here you can also enjoy summer-camp vibes at the Arturówek Recreation Complex. Or you can wander through carefully curated parks that were either owned or cared for by the industrial barons, places like Źródliska and Sokołówki. Rumor has it there’s even a toboggan run at Rudzka Hill…

A gazebo in Zrodliska Park, which is also where the Botanical Gardens and Palmiarnia are. — Zrodliska Park, which is where the Botanical Gardens and Palmiarnia are.

14. Get to know the city’s most famous residents.

All up and down Piotrkowska Street are statues of the city’s most famous residents. Get to know the city’s history (and take advantage of some photo ops) by seeing how many you can find. From the great pianist Rubinstein to the Nobel laureate Wladyslaw Reymont, the legendary characters of Lodz are kept alive.

A statue of Arthur Rubinstein, master piano player, at the keys. A giant wing protrudes from the top of the piano.

15. Get tipsy at the ‘vodka drinking spots.’

Having lived in Russia and Ukraine, Poland’s not the first place I think of when someone suggests vodka, but it’s quite obvious that it’s up there as a national drink. Łódź (and every Polish city, really) is dotted with casual vodka bars, which a local recommended. You can go in a take a few cheap shots to give your night a buzz or you can enjoy it in the more traditional way, with a herring snack.

Sidewalk seating for one of the vodka bars in Lodz on Piotrkowska Street. — The classy way to phrase this is “a little local refreshment, al fresco.”

16. Nosh on Armenian food.

Lavash was another recommendation from a local, who raved about this Armenian restaurant. Since I lived in Tbilisi and visited Yerevan, I was pleased to stuff myself with some of my favorite foods. If you’re craving Caucasus cuisine (or worse, have never tried it!) this is definitely a worthy dinner spot.

Eggplant rolls stuffed with walnut paste and tarragon lemonade at Lavash in Lodz.

17. Haunt the Jewish cemetery.

With over 160,000 graves and covering more than 40 hectares, the Jewish cemetery gives you plenty of space for some quiet reflective wandering. The wealthy manufacturing families in Łódź created elaborate mausoleums and tombs, making it a place of slightly grim elegance.

18. Chill out with the crowds at open air food festivals.

Piotrkowska 217 is another renovated industrial complex, this one an old iron foundry. Now it’s host to businesses, restaurants, shops, and — my favourite thing — food truck festivals! But that’s not its only open air gastronomy event. It also has also hosted a Street Beer Festival, a World Breakfast Festival, and an Artisan Ice Cream Festival.

The outdoor space of Piotrkowska 217, where people mingle while eating and drinking during a food truck festival. In the background, on one of the old foundry walls, there is a mural of a giant rat. — Not that I often want to be looking at rats while eating…

19. Educate yourself about manufacturing.

The evidence of Łódź’s rich manufacturing history is all around you in the city, from the baron’s palaces to the worker’s tenements. However, if you want to learn more about the work itself, not just the lifestyles it created, then you can check out the Museum of the Factory. This modern museum, housed inside the renovated Manufaktura complex, educates about both past manufacturing processes and ones used today.

20. Feel the thrill of the Speedway.

Join locals in the grandstands of the Atlas Arena and feel the non-stop adrenaline as the riders jostle for first place on their small, speedy motorbikes. With its loose gravel track, speedway racing is clutch-the-edge-of-your-seat excitement! If you prefer a sport without constant anxiety, Lodz has two football clubs, including the champion team Widzew Łódź.

21. Shop local at FolkStar.

Getting souvenirs when traveling can present something of a challenge, especially if you’re not sure something is *really* locally made. FolkStar solves that problem for you, offering a huge selection of Polish-made souvenirs. (You can find them in a few other cities as well, including Warsaw, Gdansk, Wroclaw, Poznan, and Torun.)

Inside Folkstar in Lodz. It has plenty of made-in-Poland souvenirs, including bags, lanyards, stationary, jewelry, wooden boxes, toys, magnets, coffee cups, and more.

22. Drool over fresh donuts being made.

Heeeeeeello, paczkis! Poland is famous for its donuts, and in most cities little shops churn out freshly made donuts behind glass so that you can see the magic being made. There are several donut shops on or right off Piotrkowska, like Gorąca Pączkarnia and Stara Pączkarnia.

A fresh donut in a brown paper bag. — This is the best thing to do in any Polish city.

22. Rent a bike.

With Piotrkowska Street being over 4 km long, you may not want to constantly walk up and down the entire thing. Luckily, it’s easy to rent bikes in Łódź. There are many bike rental stations, and the directions are published in Polish and English. Hop on and off to explore the city more easily (also you can work off those donuts).

A young woman returns her bicycle rental at one of the ports on Piotrkowska Street in Lodz.

23. Haunt the Jewish cemetery.

24. Attend a summer festival.

After roughing the Polish winter, Łódź residents seize summer with vigor. Every festival is a celebration of culture, connection, and finally some warm weather. There’s the cinematic Transatlantyk Festival (one of many film festivals!), a ballet festival, music festivals, and – of course – beer festivals. You can even casually catch some culture on Piotrkowska Street. With everything from musicians to stand up, you might experience a little open air theatre.

A pop up display board of the summer festivals and events along Piotrkowska Street in Lodz. — While Poland is pretty English-friendly, Google Translate still isn’t a bad thing to have at the ready.

25. Visit the Cinematography Museum.

Once you get the pronunciation of the city, its nickname “HollyŁódź” will start to make sense. Polish cinema may not be the most well-known of the European industries, but back in the day Lodz was the place to go if you were a budding Polish film artist. (Fun fact: I almost took an elective in Polish film history until I had to change my schedule.) Located inside one of the old industrial baron’s estates, the Cinematography Museum is a magical collision of film imagination and the extravagance of the 19th century wealthy. Even if you’re not a film nerd, it’s still fun to poke around the old palace. Please note, the Cinematography Museum is closed for renovations until mid-2020.

26. Cool down at the Aquapark.

Tired of walking? Feeling cultured enough? You can take a break at the Aquapark Fala, complete with kids’ area, a wave pool and lazy river, and water slides.

With all these things to do in Łódź, are you still not sure where to start? The Łódź Tourist Information Center has lots of literature and can give you helpful information to set you on the right path.

On the side of a building, an artist has created a 3D sculpture of a bird using what looks like old car parts or maybe even machinery.

So, is Łódź worth visiting?

Absolutely! In architecture, it’s unique from any other Polish city. In history, there’s much to see and learn. And in food (and drink), there’s more than enough to keep you stuffed and tipsy. With everything from art museums to craft beer bars, food festivals to lakes and forests, Łódź might have the most diverse offerings of any city in Poland!

In OFF Piotrskowske, people sit outside at tables under umbrellas, eating at restaurants that now occupy the old manufacturing buildings. — Cool people, riding their bikes to a repurposed factory building, eating brunch and probably drinking craft beer. Hipsters in the States are going to be jealous.

Learn More about Łódź

With its prominent place in Polish history, Łódź has been the subject of several films and books. Consider checking out Nobel Prize winner Władysław Reymont’s book The Promised Land or Hotel Savoy by Joseph Roth. Oscar-winning Polish director Andrzej Wajda made a film adaptation of The Promised Land in 1975.

How to Get to Łódź

Some low cost airlines will fly direct into Łódź, but it’s more likely that you’ll find a convenient flight to Warsaw and then make your way to Łódź from there.

I went to Łódź from Warsaw via Flix Bus, one of the easiest ways to get around in Poland by public transport. I spent two days there before taking another bus on to Krakow to meet my family. There are many bus connections to Łódź from the other major Polish cities. You can also reach Łódź by train, though in general I’ve found buses to be easier and more convenient.

While Łódź was not technically part of our Poland road trip, it can be easily added to the itinerary. It’s almost smack in the middle of Poland, but I’d recommend scheduling it between Warsaw and Krakow or Gdansk and Warsaw, depending on your overall route.

A row of beer taps in Lodz. — Aaaaaaaall the craft beer!

Where to Stay in Łódź

In terms of location, it’s best to stay on or near Piotrkowska Street. Even though it’s 4 km long, I’d suggest staying somewhere in the middle, as Manufaktura is at one end and many of the food complexes at the other.

For a fun flashback to the city’s cinema industry, check out the Stare Kino Hotel. There are free movie screenings for guests!

Alternatively, Andel’s allows you to live the hip modern manufacturing life with its 4 star hotel in Manufaktura. Two of the biggest highlights? The pool with viiiiiiews and the rooftop bar.

For a more elegant feel, check out the vintage Łódzki Pałacyk Hotel. Exposed brick walls, chandeliers, and heavy wooden headboards – it’s a bohemian dream!

If you’d like to stay in a well-known chain, both Ibis and Novotel have locations in Łódź.

Aparthotels are very popular in Poland right now, so when you search for accommodation in Łódź prepare to see lots of those. Sometimes they can be really nice, though without the amenities of a traditional hotel. I stayed in a shared aparthotel situation, and I wasn’t a big fan. While the room and apartment itself were both fine, the walls were thin and other guests constantly slammed doors. But if you find a private apartment, it can be quite nice. A lot of them have been designed in very trendy ways, like this place.

Whatever your needs, go here to find the best Łódź accommodation prices.

If you want to see more of Łódź, head over to my Instagram account! It’s part of the ‘Polish Road Trip 1’ highlights.

26 Things to Do in Łódź

Why Visit Łódź?

What Makes it Special?