• What It’s Really Like to Hike Svaneti

    I’m pacing the three-meter length of the shoebox Northface store in Tbilisi, occasionally bouncing on the balls of my feet to fake like I know what I’m doing. The sales girl smiles at me encouragingly, but it’s…

  • Rethinking Solo Travel in Ureki, Georgia

    I’m sitting in the reception area of a hotel in Ureki Georgia, with bedding and other random hospitality debris piled high around me, and there’s one thing for certain. I am definitely traveling alone. I know this…

  • The Cable Car in Khulo, Georgia

    I knew I had made a good choice when my hostel mom’s eyes light up. “Ah, Khulo!” she said, with the most enthusiasm I had seen in my four days in Batumi (barring when I struggled to…

  • What Happened in Tbilisi

    You know how when you show up in a new place, with no friends, no job, no place to stay, you have the chance to reinvent yourself entirely? No one knows anything about you – this is…

  • The Best Bars in Kyiv

    When people ask me what I miss about Kyiv, I say my friends – including my bartenders. I think my mom cringes at this, but I promise it’s not a confession of alcoholism. What I love about…

  • (My) Ultimate Kiev Restaurant Guide

    When people ask me why I decided to return to Kiev, I rattle off a list of things. The friendly Ukrainian people, my supportive school, the creative energy. And the food. The Kiev restaurant scene is unbelievable…

  • The 4th Annual Butler Family Donut Hike

    I had been planning the Butler Family Donut Hike for months, trolling Instagram, scouring Google Maps, reading article after article of drool-worthy New York pastries. When I finally sent the itinerary to my family, I was pleased.…

  • On Leaving Ukraine

    I knew it was time to leave Ukraine when they knocked down the cigarette stands across the street. It’s not that I smoke cigarettes, but that was my go-to place for late night chocolate. I had established…